Waistcoat & Trews 

Last week we published a short introduction to trews , Like Trousers But Not. This week we focus on the waistcoat worn with them (Highland dress).

Where trews are cut straight on the grain (warp and weft), the accompanied waistcoat is cut diagonally on the cloth, aka on the bias. Traditionally, it may have allowed the waistcoat to wrap and mould around its wearer. Nowadays however, it is largely an aesthetic decision with the diagonal tartan pattern sitting above the horizontally straight tartan of the trews.

Director Paul Munday, lays out the customer’s tartan cloth for cutting. Great care and attention is needed to ensure the tartan pattern remains uninterrupted across different sections of cloth that meet. This is particularly important on the front opening. In the last image (bottom right) Paul illustrates where the cloth will meet when buttoned.

A Finished Waistcoat

A finished Highland dress waistcoat ready for a customer’s final fitting. Even across lapels and openings the tartan pattern continues. For more information on bespoke tailoring methods please visit our blog How Well Do You Know Bespoke.

If you would like us to make you a waistcoat, please get in touch with Paul Munday at paul@meyerandmortimer.com

M&M